Sailing Pretty

For the historically inclined traveller Luderitz offers a wealth of interesting activities and sights, from its German architecture (unsurprisingly rather popular with German visitors) to the ghost town of Kolmanskop that lies a few kilometres in land. However, for those who prefer entertainment of a more up to date nature the daily yacht trips that tour the coastline may be just the ticket. Our roving reporter took a spin in the Sturmvogel, owned by Gunther Berens.

At first glance Gunther does not strike the observer as being a typical old man of the sea character; for a start he lacks the customary flowing beard and salty yellow southwester, instead sporting a completely bald head and an unusual taste in hats. However, don’t let that put you off as underneath the clean-shaven exterior Gunther holds a wealth of knowledge on all aspects of maritime life large enough to rival Davy Jones’s.

Stepping aboard his boat, The Sturmvogel, Gunther spread a large map of the Luderitz coastline upon the deck and traced the journeys route with a long weather- beaten finger; “We’ll travel out of the harbour and sail up past Diaz Point, where there’s a seal colony, hugging the coastline up to Halifax Island to see the penguins”, he grinned, “penguins are always a favourite with visitors!” The boats route then turns back on itself, sailing towards Agate beach and the hulking sand dunes before coming back into harbour. Folding up the map Gunther smiles again, motions for us to sit on a cushioned bench and pulls up the main sail, we were off!

Having lived in Luderitz for a fair few months now, I feel fairly confident in saying that I know the town relatively well, but the view of the harbour from the stern of the Sturmvogel was one I had never seen before; like a picture postcard the town lay spread out and colourful against the rocky greyness of the desert looking so pretty that not even the dusty gravel roads and disused power station could spoil it.

As we set out for open water Gunter struck up a running commentary on the landscape, the animal life and the weather, pausing only to ask a couple of friendly questions and adjust the little boats course. Although Luderitz is famed for its high wind speeds, the days when it is calm and sunny should gain just as much notoriety, and dangling my feet over the side of the boat and watching a pod of dolphins follow our course is anyone’s idea of paradise. My happiness was truly complete, however, when Gunther twinkled his seaman’s eyes and produced a lunch box full of food, including a warm meat pie and a pickle- bliss!

Sturmvogel tours cater for groups as large as 10, provides blankets and a CD of photos of the boat and the coastline and includes lunch (complete with pickles). Morning tours usually last 4 hours and sundowner tours last 3.