SPCA wants to make it clear that they cannot assist with cats, only dogs. The dogs are being cared for at the old building near the first lagoon. SPCA does this in cooperation with Luderitz Town Council. Luderitz Town Council gives funds each month to make it possible to take care of the dogs. This money is used to get basic necessities for the dogs. This money is not enough to get everything and the SPCA has to do a lot of fundraising to make sure the dogs get what they need.

At the moment SPCA is looking after three dogs, but there are a lot more street dogs to take care of. If the SPCA get more help and more opportunities, they can take care of more dogs. If there are less street dogs, the face of Luderitz will be better and that is also good for the town itself. SPCA is planning to do a big clean-up operation in November to take care of more sick, lost and street dogs. The Luderitz SPCA is also in cooperation with SPCA in Windhoek. They do spay campaigns in Keetmanshoop, Luderitz, Rosh Pinah and maybe Karasburg. If people work together, they can achieve more and that’s what everyone wants.

A simple note from one of the SPCA members: If you have dogs, take care of them. Give them the love, food and the attention they need. Also, keep them in your yard! Don’t let them wander around the streets.

Could YOU help make a difference?

If you are interested, please get in contact with SPCA member
Monica Klose,
081-3668635.

This month, in response to the recent closure of the SPCA, Helmuth Syvertsen writes about his concern for the future of the stray animals on our streets.
Dear Animal Friends
I am not a member of the SPCA but I am wondering; what will the future hold for our beloved animals and strays?
Many stray dogs frequently lie in front of the Spar and other parts of the town in the hope of getting some food from the customers. Some of them look like their life might end any hour.

1. I do understand that the SPCA has no other choice than to close down indefinitely at the end of this month because their funds have dried out.
2. I do understand that our Town Council is not involved in the SPCA or animal control of this town in any way at this stage.
3. I do understand that our Vet who now travels to Luderitz from Walvis Bay every month would possibly not visit Luderitz any more once the SPCA has closed down.

We must face up to these facts and do something about it. Town Council of Luderitz, we need your help very urgently. There are laws in place to prohibit animal cruelty. The buchters also need to be educated about animal care. These strays are definitely not attractive to our tourists and they give this town a very bad name when it comes to animal care and I think it is our Duty to do something about thier future. I am going to sponsor the SPCA
N$ 100/month per stop order as from Sept 2010 and hope everybody else who can afford it will add something on a regular basis to save our SPCA . “ I think that all buchters should try and work together on this subject for a positive outcome for all of us.”
Helmuth Syvertsen

SOCIETY FOR
PREVENTION
OF CRUELTY
TO ANIMALS
P O BOX 1147
LUDERITZ NAMIBIA
TEL: 081 128 7416
FAX: 063 203884

People talk, cats meow, ducks quack, and dogs bark. That’s what they do. But when dogs bark excessively, it’s enough to create neighbourhood uproar. Assuming all parties are reasonable in their expectations, that’s the last thing anyone wants. So what is to be done if your furry pal barks like there’s no tomorrow? The answer is simple—listen to what he is telling you. You don’t have to be Dr. Doolittle to speak his language. All you have to do is understand why he is barking. There are generally four types of barking: (1) watchdog; (2) request barking; (3) spooky barking; and (4) boredom barking. Each one has a unique purpose and, more importantly, a different solution.

Watchdog barking serves two purposes for a dog. It alerts pack members that there is an “outsider” approaching and it warns the intruder that they have been noticed. Your dog is doing what any good, upstanding member of a dog pack would do to protect the “family.” Overcoming watchdog barking is done by teaching the dog a competing response— such as fetching a certain toy or doing a down-stay on a mat (which cuts barking in many dogs) for tasty food rewards every time an “outsider” approaches.

Request barking, on the other hand, is the dog’s way of communicating to you that he would like something. When they want something, dogs will experiment with various behaviours to see if any of them work. They quickly figure out that barking works with their owners. If you don’t like barking, stop rewarding it but meet his needs. Rather than the dog telling you when to take him out, take him out at regular intervals instead, making sure barking precedes none of them.

Spooky barking occurs when the dog is uncomfortable about something in the environment and barks to say “I’m dangerous! Don’t come any closer!” To prevent spooky barking, socialize puppies extensively to a wide variety of people and dogs. If you missed the boat socializing your puppy, you’ll have to do remedial work with your adolescent or adult. It takes a while to resocialize adults so stick with it.

But by far the most common type of barking is boredom barking which results because the dog’s daily needs for companionship, socialization and mental stimulation are not being met. The classic example of boredom barking occurs when owners are neglectful of their dog’s needs by keeping him outside or chained most of the time. The advice is simple: If you don’t have time for a dog, don’t get a dog. There is no quick fix here—you must meet your dog’s basic needs for stimulation, exercise and companionship and that cannot occur if the dog is constantly chained or not allowed indoors.

A) Crate
The dog/puppy must be crated whenever you’re away or can’t actively supervise (e.g., when you’re busy around the house, sleeping, etc.) This will make him hold on so that you can have a success outside later. If you find the dog/ puppy is soiling his crate, the likelihood is that the crate is too large: she can use part of it as a toilet OR she is being kept in the crate too long.

B) Schedule
You must provide the dog/ puppy with a set schedule for eating and for going outside. If you are away for longer than 4 hours, have someone come to the house to take him out. Optimally, there is always someone at home during the housetraining period. A typical schedule looks like this:
1. First thing in the morning
2. A few minutes after each meal. This is often when dogs/puppies will have to poop. You will discover your own pet’s rhythm.
3. For puppies: every hour on the hour. Take the puppy outside on leash for five minutes in a small area. Always return to the same spot so he begins to associate the area with its purpose. Don’t interact with the puppy. Have a play period once he is finished. If nothing happens after five minutes, bring him back into the house and crate him for another thirty minutes. Then try again. If he does eliminate, he may have a free period in the kitchen or confinement area, or, better yet, a nice walk. This acts as an added bonus for performing.
4. During the night. A very young pup (6-7 weeks) may need to go out once during the night.

C) Treats
Every time your dog/puppy eliminates outside, lavish him with enthusiastic praise during the act and follow with an extra special treat (e.g., a small piece of cheese or hot dog). If you find that the praise makes him stop in the middle of eliminating, save it until just after she finishes.

D) Good Observing Skills
Your dog/puppy will give off signals that he needs to eliminate. It’s essential that you learn what these are so you can prevent mistakes. Common behaviours include circling, restlessness & sniffing. Whenever you see these, take the dog out!

E) Patience
Don’t lose your cool. Especially with puppies, many dogs will have accidents, especially in the beginning of training. Since your puppy will be supervised at all times when loose in the house, you will be able to provide the proper feedback as the dog begins to eliminate or, even better, take him out before he even starts (see “good observing skills…” above). If you catch him starting to eliminate inside, interrupt him with a sharp sound. This may even prevent him from finishing. Urgently say “outside” and then get the puppy there as quickly as possible. Stay outside for the 5-minute period and praise & treat if he finishes eliminating. If not, bring him back inside and either supervise or crate him for another try later. If the dog/puppy has an accident in the house or in the crate and you did not see it happen, NEVER punish him after the fact. Simply clean up the spot and then apply a commercial odour neutralizer or 50% vinegar to water. This will help prevent a certain location from smelling like an “indoor toilet”. Most importantly after any accident, try to supervise more closely in future and/or add another outing to your schedule.

Frequently Asked Questions
What do I do if there is no one to come home while I’m at work to let him out after 4 hour? Try to find a doggy day-care that can provide your puppy with the attention he requires during the first 4 months. The more accidents that go without feedback, the longer it will take to housetrain.
I follow the schedule but my puppy urinates several times an hour in the house! Is he normal?
Have your veterinarian check whether the puppy has a urinary tract infection.
My puppy is four months old and still having frequent accidents. Help!
He has too much unsupervised, loose time in the house. Remember that each time he eliminates in the house without being caught, he is being de-trained. Tighten up your regime. I want my dog to eventually go outside but I’m confused. Should / paper-train first and then later train him to go outside?
If you have access to the outdoors and your goal is for the dog to eliminate there, paper training is unnecessary. It’s easier on the dog to not first teach him that it is okay to eliminate inside and then later change the rules.

Chocolate, Macadamia nuts …these foods may sound delicious to you, but are actually quite dangerous to our animal companions.

Chocolate, Coffee, Caffeine: These products all contain substances called methylxanthines, which are found in cacao seeds, the fruit of the plant used to make coffee and in the nuts of an extract used in some sodas. When ingested by pets, methylxanthines can cause vomiting and diarrhoea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and even death. Note that darker chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate. White chocolate has the lowest level of methylxanthines, while baking chocolate contains the highest.

Alcohol Alcoholic beverages and food products containing alcohol can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, decreased coordination, central nervous system depression, difficulty breathing, tremors, abnormal blood acidity, coma and even death.

Macadamia Nuts: Macadamia nuts are commonly used in many cookies and candies. However, they can cause problems for your canine companion. These nuts have caused weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors and hyperthermia in dogs. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12 to 48 hours.

Grapes & Raisins: Although the toxic substance within grapes and raisins is unknown, these fruits can cause kidney failure. In pets who already have certain health problems, signs may be more dramatic. Yeast Dough Yeast dough can rise and cause gas to accumulate in your pet’s digestive system. This can be painful and can cause the stomach or intestines to rupture. Because the risk diminishes after the dough is cooked and the yeast has fully risen, pets can have small bits of bread as treats. However, these treats should not constitute more than 5 percent to 10 percent of your pet’s daily caloric intake

The SPCA is trying its best to ensure that most of the animals adopted from the shelter are spayed and neutered. We have enhanced our service to our customers and improved the quality of life of animals in our town by including the following in our adoption program: the cost of spaying/neutering your new pet and initial vaccinations. What does pet overpopulation have to do with me? Everything. If your pet has one litter, even if you find homes for most of the pups and kittens, in one year, all the pups or kittens could have litters of their own. A lot of money is spend annually to care for lost, abandoned and unwanted pets…and lots more destroy those that do not find homes. Health and safety are threatened by rabies, dog bites, cat scratches and traffic accidents. Property may be damaged when dogs run “wild” or in packs. Walkways and public areas can be fouled with urine and faeces.

The Benefits of Spaying and Neutering: Besides drastically reducing the possibility of various medical problems occurring, spaying or neutering your pet has a variety of benefits such as: reducing the tendency in male cats and dogs to roam, and makes them easier to train eliminating the inconvenience of the heat cycle in female dogs and cats better health in both male and female dogs and cats eliminating spraying in most male cats easier training, happier pets So please don’t litter — Prevent a litter